When compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred venues. But, situated high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of north London.
This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has left the owners totally astonished.
“I am totally shocked,” states a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.
The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.
In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.
The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.
It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.
Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.
The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.
“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.
In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.
“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.
The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary honour.
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