Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city comes as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to explore these tales and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
